My email to my friend Eli in Amsterdam contained only one word: "WTF????"
He had just told me that he was taking a job in Oman.
That's right, Oman, the sultanate just south of Saudi Arabia, on the Indian Ocean.
I called. "But...but...but it's the Arabian Peninsula! I wouldn't set foot in any country where being gay brings the death penalty."
"No, that is Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates. In Oman the penalty is only three years in prison."
"Only three years in prison?"
"Most of the states in the U.S. had worse penalties. Besides, it is only if you are discovered."
"But...you live in Amsterdam, where everything is open. Gay life in Oman must be incredibly closeted. No bars, no bathhouses, no organizations."
"They have Grindr. And it is a very good job, and it will last only one year."
Eli's Dispatches from Oman (modified slightly for grammar).
September 2013
"You were thinking mud streets and minarets, yes? Oman is modern! The Food Court in the Muscat Grand Mall has Charley's Grilled Subs, Curry in a Hurry, Hungry Bunny, KFC, Papa John's, Mr. Pretzels, and Wok and Roll."
"Half the people here are guest workers from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. Last night I met a very cute boy from Bangladesh on Grindr. He never met a black guy before. We went to my flat and kissed for awhile, and then I went down on him. Kovbasa+, at least 25 centimeters, uncut! Here's a picture (top photo)."
October
"Muscat, the capital, is beautiful! There are so many interesting sights! I like the Omani French Museum, the Bait al Zubir, and the Museum of Modern Art. And there are two beaches!
"The assumption is that gay people exist only in the West, so straight guys have no qualms about hooking up with each other while waiting to marry. Today I hooked up with a Pakistani guy on a crowded bus. He just started fondling me! Before I knew it, I was aroused, and he was doing me through my pants! When I finished, he moved away like nothing happened.
November"Another Grindr hookup, this time with a real Omani Arab named Jamal. Because I am black, he thought I was from Kenya He wanted to know if all Kenyans are gay. I told him 'Most.'
He was about 30 years old, tall, bearded, with a smooth chest, a Bratwurst+ beneath the belt. I let him top me with my legs in the air. "
"Today I had lunch with Jamal at a place called The Steak Company. He's married, but often has boyfriends on the side. His wife doesn't mind -- she often has boyfriends on the side, too."
"Jamal and I shared one of his boyfriends, an Indian boy in his 20s with long hair and a little goatee. He had about a Mortadella+, but he was a total bottom, only interested in going down on me and having Jamal top him.
The Arabs are really attracted to Indians, almost as much as to black guys."
January 2014
"Today I hooked up with a guy from Zanzibar. A tall black guy with big muscles and an enormous penis. I went down on him in a secluded spot on the beach. Can you believe it?"
"I know you are into languages. I've been studying Arabic, but I rarely get a chance to use it -- everyone speaks English all the time. Did you know that Oman has 7 Semitic languages besides Arabic? Also they speak Baluchi, which is a language from Iran, and Urdu and Swahili."
"You think that Oman is all Muslim, but about 20% of the population is Hindu or Christian. There's a big Catholic church. I went with my friend Jacob, who is an American, a blond-haired blue-eyed cowboy. You think that black guys are popular here, you should see all the action blonds get!"
."I started dating an Arab guy named Mohammed, or Mo. He is in his 20s, slim, rather feminine, but super-hung, with a thick Kielbasa. He's only into oral, but I don't mind -- because I'm black, everybody wants me to top them.
Most of Mo's friends are gay. No one notices, not even when they 'camp' at lunch. He says his family knows, and doesn't care. This is the first guy I've hooked up with who spends the night."
"Mo and I drove out to Nizwa, about 1 1/2 hours from Muscat, to see the Nizwa Fort. It's really a giant palace that dates from the 17th century, where the walis would govern during the Caliphate. Nizwa is an old, traditional city with adobe buildings and an open-air souk, but also a Domino's Pizza on the outskirts of town!
There was a boy, about 17, working there, very handsome with big eyes and a slim frame. We brought him back to our hotel and took turns going down on him. Then he topped me. Bratwurst+, but rather thin, so I didn't mind.
April
"I hooked up with another Arab guy on the street. We met at the Family Bookshop, which has a good selection of English books (you can't find Dutch books in Oman). He had a remarkably hairy chest and a Kielbasa+. I went down on him while he kept talking from a porn movie 'Yeah, yeah, go down on that big cock, yeah, yeah.'"
May
"Mo took me to meet his family. They asked me if we would get married! Of course, same-sex marriage is illegal in Oman, but legal in the Netherlands, so if Mo comes back with me. I'm not realy looking for a permanent relationship. I think it's time to say goodbye to Mo."
June"All of the guys I've met so far, Arab, Indian, even American, have been super-hung. So I was disappointed when the Grindr hookup I had last night, an Arab guy with a thin beard and nice pecs, turned out to be only average."
July
"My year in Oman is almost over. Would it be ok if I come and visit you on the Plains before I return to Amsterdam? I could use a quiet, peaceful vacation after the nonstop sex of Oman."
See also: The Dutch Caribbean at the Horseman's Club; My Best Day in Amsterdam
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